Saturday 29 December 2012

Bolivia, The Most Dangerous Road in the World


Bolivia, The World's most dangerous road

It's a bike ride like no other, I didn't know anything about it, when I first went to Bolivia in 2006. I was advised about this adventure by Iosu and Ivan, 2 Spanish travel mates who I met by coincidence in La Paz. I had actually saw them few weeks earlier in Bogota, Colombia, they had arrived at the hostel while I was leaving, what a coincidence!



Many name have been given to this deadly road: North Yungas Road, Grove's RoadCoroico Road,  Camino de las Yungas, Road of fate or Death Road.

69 kilometres (43 mi) road connecting La Paz to the Amazon rainforest, precisely to Coroico.
We left La Paz early in the morning with 2 vans, we were a group of 20 backpackers, the drivers dropped us off to the upper part of the route at La Cumbre Pass to around 4,650 metres (15,260 ft) we started cycling from there. 

I remember there was snow and the air was very thin, we were wearing shorts but the the adrenaline made the feeling of cold disappear. The temperature is very hot when you arrive to Coroico, at the end of the road, 1,200 metres (3,900 ft). the road wasn't wider than 3.2 metres and no guard rails.






The road was built in the 1930s by Paraguayan prisoners during the Chaco War.
The Yungas Road has been modernised: 2 lanes, pavement, guardrails etc. It is definitely safer now and someone told me that there are no vehicles now as it became just an attraction for tourists, please let me know if you have any update.



Rain, fog and dust reduce visibility, the road surface is often muddy and can loosen rocks from the road.



It is nearly all downhill, from 4,650 metres down to 1,200 metres, speed increases almost imperceptibly, your hands are constantly on the brakes 1 error can cost your life.


I rode the bike very carefully we were told that an Israeli backpacker died 2 weeks earlier, actually with the same travel guide who took us there, he told us the story, he said that he told the 2 friends off several times hence they took the distance from the group and kept playing with each other until one of them made the fatal error falling 80 meters down.




No wonder it is known as "The world's most dangerous road", or "Death road"
this has became now, one of the most popular activities for backpackers in Bolivia.

At least 18 cyclists have died on the ride since 1998.

A statistic says that 200 to 300 travellers use to die yearly along the road. There are cross markings along the road where vehicles have fallen.

On 24 July 1983, a bus veered fell into a canyon, killing more than 100 passengers in what is said to be Bolivia's worst road accident.









This was the resort in Coroico were we relaxed at the end of the route, there was a swimming pool showers and a restaurant.



Iosu interviewing our guide for his documentary "Costura de America"

Saturday 22 December 2012

Bolivia, Salar De Uyuni


this is a b/w picture of "isla pescado" in the "Salar de Uyuni" in Bolivia
El Salar De Uyuny, Bolivia

The biggest Salt flat in the world the most surreal place I have ever visited in my life. El Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia.

This salty desert used to be a lake, it's located in southwest Bolivia at 3,656 meters above the sea level.


Bolivia is still rough and disorganised that's why it's worth it to go, Bolivia is still un unspoilt country to visit, is not a relaxing holiday if that's what you'r looking for. Transport are very uncomfortable Bolivia is quite an adventurous place with a lot of charm.

Bolivia offers unique landscapes, salty and sandy deserts looking like another planet and tropical forests as well.

The picture above shows "Isla Pescado" it's just a small hill in the middle of the salty desert, apparently these are the tallest cactus in the world they can rich up to 3 m high.

This was a 4 day trip with 8 people on a jeep, this was extremely cheap 7 years  ago and I think still now, I guess I paid 50 american dollars including food and accommodation for 4 days, obviously nobody complaint for the lack of caviar and champagne.

Make sure you go there with a good sleeping bag as the there is no heating in the shelter and the temperature can drop to -10C during the night.


El Hotel de Sal
As a travel photographer I managed to stay in this luxury hotel, made by salt, for free; I was travelling with other 2 Spanish guys, Iosu and Ivan, who I'd met in La Paz few days before by coincidence we recognised each others as we were in the same hostel in Bogota, I actually left the hostel the same day they arrived. Iosu was filming a documentary from Alaska following the Panamericana route all the way down to Ushuaia in Argentina, he got in contact with the hotel and managed to arrange this interchange with the hotel's owner: 3 accommodations for the pics below.

view of the salar the Uyuni from the hotel de sal in Uyuni, Bolivia
Big windows to enjoy the view the tables are made by salt, as well as the bricks and the floor. Breakfast was amazing by the way
this was 1 of the relaxing spots in the hotel de sal, Uyuni, Bolivia
The hotel was designed by an Architect as you can see is very stylish and comfortable. 
this is the restaurant in the hotel de sal in Uyuni, Bolivia
There is plenty of space in the hotel
game room in the hotel de sal in Uyuni
Game room 
Outside the hotel  from outside
Outside the hotel
sunset from hotel de sal Uyuni, Bolivia
This is the amazing view of the sunset from the dinning room
The room was very cosy and comfortable in spite everything was made by salt
this is a double room in the hotel de sal, Uyuny
Everything is made with local material even this lamp was made by using the wood inside the local cactus.
This hotel is not cheap considering that is in Bolivia but it's worth it to stay 1 night as a starting point for the 4 days trip in the salty desert.
close up photo of a owl
owl
hotel de sal, uyuni Bolivia by night
Hotel de sal by night
Furnitures made by using the local salt
Double room 


Relaxing corner

The 4 days trip in the Salar de Uyuni by Jeep


The trip included food and accommodation as well, we slept in a sort of salty shelter we heating but we were fine with the sleeping bag and a lot of clothes looking like the Micheline man, temperature can drop down to -20C
You can easily find an organised trip for the salar the Uyuni in Uyuni, we were a group of 6 people plus the driver and the guide in 1 Jeep
in order, in the picture above, from the left: myself, Ivan and Iosu in Isla pescado

This is a rock shaped by the wind "El arbol de piedra" (The stone tree)
This is a hot spring, driver stopped and we could enjoy a natural SPA for free - 5 outside and +20C in the water, you better take advantage of this as won't find any shower during the 4 days trip so be prepared and take a swimming trunk with you.
The motto of Chile "Por la razon o la fuerza" (By reason or Force) originated from history of civil unrest and frequent wars with neighbouring countries, and Chile's ability to use force when other reasonable options have failed.
The tallest cactus in the world
Isala pescado













The landscapes are amazing, once you cross the salty desert you find another sandy desert it actually looks like another planet I guess Mars might look pretty similar.

San Juan's precolombian necropolis


There is a 3000 years old archeological site In the middle of no were with no fences just an open air cemetery with mummies, there were 2 kids selling the tickets for the entrance but I think it was just a trick to make some money there was not a box office no guide nothing just tombs made of blocks of fossil coral with mummies and urns inside.










We decided to get off at the border with Chile as Iosu, Ivan and myself were heading south, it was much more convenient skipping the last day trip in the desert. We had seen the most beautiful part of the trip and the last day back to Uyuni wasn't exiting according to the local people hence we saved 2 days trip and we were in Chile already, ready to jump on a bus to San Pedro de Atacama.


Bolivia lost access to the see during the "Atacama border dispute" remaining in a Landlocked situation since. Bolivia and Chile have had complicated relations ever since. This might be he reason of the dent on the sign in the picture above.





Yes believe it or not this is the border between Bolivia and Chile!